Todd and Tyler Unauthorized Forums

vme057 · 10-22-2006

hey, does anyone know with what to use to find fingerprints on a keyboard?
any help would be great :)

KUfan_Donnie · 10-22-2006

I googled and came up with this:

"Prints are most commonly made or made in: PLASTIC, which are impressions left in soft material like wax, paint, or putty; VISIBLE, which are made by blood, dirt, ink, or grease; and LATENT, which are normally invisible and must be developed before they can be seen and photographed. Print evidence is fragile. A touch will destroy one. It's possible to develop prints from snow or mud, and small objects that contain trace evidence also usually contain prints. Automobiles are a frequent source of prints. The most common automobile locations are the door, trunk, hood handles, outside mirrors, license plates, trunk release, emergency brake release, seat adjustment levers, seat belt buckle, and rear view mirror. Prints are difficult to remove from rugs and furniture. When fingerprint evidence is photographed, a complete record of all technical data about the camera, lens, film, shutter speed, lens opening, illumination, camera position, distance from object, and angle is also kept. This protects the police department from charges that it's the photography which makes it look like a match. Also, in the interest of good public relations, household furnishings are usually protected with a drop cloth while police are dusting for prints. With photos, three different exposures are usually taken: a regular exposure, an underexposure, and an overexposure.

The most popular developing technique is DUSTING. The principle upon which dusting works is simple. Most people's fingers
carry a coating of perspiration and oil. When fingers come into contact with any relatively smooth surface, the friction releases the oil from between the ridges. It is for this reason, fingerprinting is sometimes called friction ridge pattern analysis. When powder is applied to the surface, it sticks to the oil and brings out the pattern. Dusting is ideal on wood, metal, glass, plastics, Formica, and tile. It is less than ideal on paper, cardboard, and leather. Powders vary in color, stickiness, photographic and magnetic qualities. The most common colors are black, white, gray, aluminum, red, and gold. The best color to use is one in sharp contrast to the surface color. For example, a white or gray powder works best on a dark surface, and a black powder works best on a whiter surface.
In multicolor situations (such as a magazine cover or cigarette pack), it's best to use a FLUORESCENT powder. When the dusted object is exposed to ultraviolet light, the powder will glow, making the print show up regardless of the background color. With porous materials (such as leather, rawer wood surfaces, paper and cardboard), the preferred technique is to use a MAGNETIC powder where finely ground iron particles are suspended onto the surface using a magnetic wand.

When a large area needs to be powdered, a large brush is used, such as one made of ostrich feathers. Once a print is located, it is moved in on with a smaller brush that's easier to manage. Before any brush is used, it is shaken until the bristles spread apart and become fluffy. Powder is never poured directly from a jar. Instead, a little is poured on a piece of paper and used as a palette. The tip of the brush is dipped in the powder, and then tapped gently to remove excess powder. Brushing is done lightly, swinging it in short, fairly quick, uniform strokes. An expert will try to follow the general direction of the ridges.

The next step is called lifting the print. Lifting involves using some adhesive material to remove the powdered print from the surface. The three most common lifting materials are hinged lifters, rubber lifters, and cellophane tape. If tape is used, a high quality clear transparent tape is best, not some glossy or opaque magic tape. The tape is unrolled a little at a time and folded over a bit to use as a tab for handling. It is important that the handler not get their own fingerprints on the tape. The handler will pull on the roll of tape so that the rest of the exposed tape is kept slightly taut, and cover the print area about an inch beyond in the other direction. They will be careful not to get air bubbles under the tape. Bubbles destroy the value of the print. The tape is gently rubbed over the print. After the tape is firmly in place, the print is lifted by pulling the roll gently and evenly away from the surface. Then, there will be a quick application of the tape to a card or piece of paper. Excess tape will then be cut away."

I wonder if this will help you on your way...

Also, I suggest reading some stuff on this page

**Thender** · 10-22-2006

Now my haed is really getting ready to burst.... Anyone have any duct tape?

jpa · 10-22-2006

why are you dusting your keyboards for print

jess · 10-23-2006

Donnie I hope you did a search to find that and you didn't just type it. It does sound like you though so I guess I wouldn't put it pass you.

KUfan_Donnie · 10-24-2006

One always has to know how to cover one's tracks

Mwhahaha!

vme057 · 10-24-2006

Thanks it did help

**ob1** · 10-24-2006

Hey Donnie, you need to work for CSI dude!

10-22-2006	#1
vme057 TnTU Pre-school Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: US Posts: 2 Throcks: 220.20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Question hey, does anyone know with what to use to find fingerprints on a keyboard? any help would be great :)

10-22-2006	#2
KUfan_Donnie 1-800-BETS-OFF Listens: Podcast Join Date: May 2005 Age: 21 Posts: 3,480 Throcks: 331.83 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Question I googled and came up with this: "Prints are most commonly made or made in: PLASTIC, which are impressions left in soft material like wax, paint, or putty; VISIBLE, which are made by blood, dirt, ink, or grease; and LATENT, which are normally invisible and must be developed before they can be seen and photographed. Print evidence is fragile. A touch will destroy one. It's possible to develop prints from snow or mud, and small objects that contain trace evidence also usually contain prints. Automobiles are a frequent source of prints. The most common automobile locations are the door, trunk, hood handles, outside mirrors, license plates, trunk release, emergency brake release, seat adjustment levers, seat belt buckle, and rear view mirror. Prints are difficult to remove from rugs and furniture. When fingerprint evidence is photographed, a complete record of all technical data about the camera, lens, film, shutter speed, lens opening, illumination, camera position, distance from object, and angle is also kept. This protects the police department from charges that it's the photography which makes it look like a match. Also, in the interest of good public relations, household furnishings are usually protected with a drop cloth while police are dusting for prints. With photos, three different exposures are usually taken: a regular exposure, an underexposure, and an overexposure. The most popular developing technique is DUSTING. The principle upon which dusting works is simple. Most people's fingers carry a coating of perspiration and oil. When fingers come into contact with any relatively smooth surface, the friction releases the oil from between the ridges. It is for this reason, fingerprinting is sometimes called friction ridge pattern analysis. When powder is applied to the surface, it sticks to the oil and brings out the pattern. Dusting is ideal on wood, metal, glass, plastics, Formica, and tile. It is less than ideal on paper, cardboard, and leather. Powders vary in color, stickiness, photographic and magnetic qualities. The most common colors are black, white, gray, aluminum, red, and gold. The best color to use is one in sharp contrast to the surface color. For example, a white or gray powder works best on a dark surface, and a black powder works best on a whiter surface. In multicolor situations (such as a magazine cover or cigarette pack), it's best to use a FLUORESCENT powder. When the dusted object is exposed to ultraviolet light, the powder will glow, making the print show up regardless of the background color. With porous materials (such as leather, rawer wood surfaces, paper and cardboard), the preferred technique is to use a MAGNETIC powder where finely ground iron particles are suspended onto the surface using a magnetic wand. When a large area needs to be powdered, a large brush is used, such as one made of ostrich feathers. Once a print is located, it is moved in on with a smaller brush that's easier to manage. Before any brush is used, it is shaken until the bristles spread apart and become fluffy. Powder is never poured directly from a jar. Instead, a little is poured on a piece of paper and used as a palette. The tip of the brush is dipped in the powder, and then tapped gently to remove excess powder. Brushing is done lightly, swinging it in short, fairly quick, uniform strokes. An expert will try to follow the general direction of the ridges. The next step is called lifting the print. Lifting involves using some adhesive material to remove the powdered print from the surface. The three most common lifting materials are hinged lifters, rubber lifters, and cellophane tape. If tape is used, a high quality clear transparent tape is best, not some glossy or opaque magic tape. The tape is unrolled a little at a time and folded over a bit to use as a tab for handling. It is important that the handler not get their own fingerprints on the tape. The handler will pull on the roll of tape so that the rest of the exposed tape is kept slightly taut, and cover the print area about an inch beyond in the other direction. They will be careful not to get air bubbles under the tape. Bubbles destroy the value of the print. The tape is gently rubbed over the print. After the tape is firmly in place, the print is lifted by pulling the roll gently and evenly away from the surface. Then, there will be a quick application of the tape to a card or piece of paper. Excess tape will then be cut away." I wonder if this will help you on your way... Also, I suggest reading some stuff on this page __________________ One weekend survived Last edited by KUfan_Donnie; 10-22-2006 at 05:29 PM.

10-22-2006	#3
Thender Always riding the ragged edge of disaster. Listens: Z92 - Mornings Join Date: May 2005 Age: 38 Posts: 20,222 Throcks: 3,532.54 Thanks: 4,011 Thanked 4,174 Times in 1,118 Posts	Re: Question Now my haed is really getting ready to burst.... Anyone have any duct tape? __________________ Shenandoah, American Legion Post #88 Color Guard, State Color Guard Champions for 2008 - 2009 Two in the mouth is worth one in the bush.

10-22-2006	#4
jpa Special Members Listens: Podcast Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Omaha Age: 28 Posts: 6,373 Throcks: 613.31 Thanks: 24 Thanked 1,073 Times in 231 Posts	Re: Question why are you dusting your keyboards for print __________________ "Never offend people with style when you can offend them with substance." --Sam Brown

10-23-2006	#5
jess TnTU Sophomore Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: A country mile North Posts: 98 Throcks: 221.12 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Question Donnie I hope you did a search to find that and you didn't just type it. It does sound like you though so I guess I wouldn't put it pass you.

10-24-2006	#7
vme057 TnTU Pre-school Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: US Posts: 2 Throcks: 220.20 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Question Thanks it did help

10-24-2006	#8
ob1 ...the Clone Wars is here!! Listens: Z92 - Mornings Join Date: May 2005 Age: 38 Posts: 6,332 Throcks: 1,306.90 Thanks: 1,356 Thanked 1,154 Times in 269 Posts	Re: Question Hey Donnie, you need to work for CSI dude! __________________

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